Early start to day forty-one, with Damian and Sharon packed up and on the way to the airport by 5:40am. Our time spent with the Drews in Exmouth had been heaps of fun, and we packed all of our things back into the van and Tundra with a touch of melancholy. Farewells were said and we headed to our next stay at Bullara Station, located on the Burkett Road, 86km south of Exmouth.
Bullara Station began its tourism operations in 2010, and it has been hugely popular since; when we arrived there was a ‘No Vacancy’ sign at the entrance.
It’s understandable why Bullara Station is so popular, being probably the most impressive station stay we’ve visited yet. They seem to have high-end everything. Artwork is displayed everywhere - from paintings to rusted machinery to quirky showers and amenities. There’s even an old woolshed that’s been converted into a cafe, restaurant and bar. Considering Bullara was flooded by Cyclone Narelle in March this year, it’s a massive accomplishment to have the station up and running as smoothly as it is.
After settling in we jumped in the Tundra to drive the 4WD Gulf Track, a 22km journey leading directly from the Bullara Homestead to the Exmouth Gulf. This drive was a really fun one, and the bull dust we encountered was probably the most intense yet. We ate dinner back at camp before heading to bed for another night.
We woke up feeling fresh and ready to adventure on day forty-two. After a good night's rest and not travelling massive kilometres for quite a few days, we decided to spend this newfound energy snorkelling the Ningaloo Reef once more. So we smashed some barista coffee and more scones before heading back to Coral Bay.
We were hoping for better weather on our second visit and were pleasantly surprised when we arrived - there was sunshine, blue skies and hardly any wind. We jagged a great spot just around the corner from the main beach, amongst some rocky outcrops and in a less crowded area.
The marine life was once again amazing, with both the coral and fish plentiful and full of vibrant colour. We had been carting a bottle of champagne along with us for a while now and it felt fitting to pop it open on our last day at Ningaloo Reef and here at Coral Bay.
Whilst sitting there we watched as a neighbouring couple wandered out into the shallow water. Next minute, he was down on one knee proposing - such a cool thing to witness. We’d say he did pretty well with the location too.
After an unreal day we arrived back at Bullara Station and enjoyed their bar that was stocked with nice WA wines and a good beer selection. We sampled some of their wine and craft beer before heading off for a very good night’s rest. Off to Karijini tomorrow, a bucket list destination of ours.
Day forty-three was going to be another travel day. We grabbed some merch from Bullara Station to remember this gorgeous place, then headed off to Dales Campground in Karijini National Park, a drive of approximately 585km.
It took us around seven hours with a couple of fuel stops, and also through countryside we hadn’t seen before - ranges varying in size and colour, patches of wildflowers and plenty of red, red dirt.
To make it even better it was sealed all the way to Dales.
The campground is booked through the WA Parks website, and in the peak season you’d need to book in advance if you wanted a spot. There’s an overflow campground when the main one is booked out, but it’s a large dust bowl area further on from the tracks.
We set up camp, familiarised ourselves with the spot and settled in for the night.
The morning of day forty-four was very fresh - the Tundra was showing nine degrees. We were prepared for cool weather here though, and retreated into the van with warm clothes and the heater on for the first time this trip. We stayed in the warmth of the van to catch up on necessities for the three businesses at home, emerging just after 9am ready to explore Karijini. Our first stop was the visitor centre, which we really enjoyed.
It’s shaped like a giant goanna, and inside there are stories from Traditional Owners sharing their history, tradition, the impacts of European settlement and mining, as well as detailing their determination to keep stories and traditions alive for future generations. The centre also has displays of ancient rocks, local plants, native animals and a gift shop with helpful staff. Well worth visiting.
Next we went back to camp where we could walk to Dales Gorge, onto Fortescue Falls and finally onto Fern Pool. There is a walk along the bottom of the Gorge as well as along its rim. We decided to walk the lower trail, which took us through sweeping views from the top edge at Circular Pools Lookout down into the coliseum of layered red cliffs and green vegetation below.
Next was a pathway of smooth rocks leading to Fortescue Falls, the park's only permanent spring-fed waterfall. Fortescue was unique and cool - there’s red-rock steps directly beneath the waterfall, and visitors were taking advantage, sitting underneath the cascading water and enjoying the beautiful surroundings.
We continued on and saw smaller waterholes on the way to Fern Pool. It is a sacred site, framed by ferns and paperbark trees, and is a lovely, tranquil spot with beautiful views.
Our return walk took us along the upper rim trail this time, giving us a different view of the Gorge.
We savoured the 5.1km walk, stopping for a picnic at a bench along the way and enjoying the peacefulness. Some tiny weebills joined us, playing around in the eucalypt trees.
After a big day in Karijini we were very content, and finished it by relaxing back at camp and researching our path home to Toowoomba. We did begin to watch the Cowboys vs. Roosters NRL game, but quickly turned it off. Thankfully so, as it ended 82-12 to the Roosters. Sorry to remind any Cowboys fans of that one.
Day forty-five was the last day of July. The time is going so quickly.
First we left Dales Campground and visited Joffre Gorge.
Thankfully, everything is very accessible in Karijini with sealed roads and carparks right at gorge entrances. From the carpark, we walked a short distance to the lookout to take it in from above, then hit the 1.5km return climb. The steep steps to get down were definitely worth the effort - Joffre Gorge was breathtaking.
Throughout the wet season running water feeds the waterfall and pool below, but during the dry season there’s no running water and the pool is stagnant. This didn’t bother us though, we were again in awe of the rock formations, the colours, and the obvious age and history that’s shaped Joffre Gorge into what it is today.
Next we headed to Weano Gorge carpark where we were spoilt for choice with walking trails and lookouts. You can take trails to Weano or Hancock Gorge - after surveying the trail map we decided on Hancock. It was a class five trail and we were up for some exercise and a challenge.
After another short 1.5km hike we descended to the bottom of the Gorge via steep steps and rocks. The path takes you along rocky walls and through knee-high water. Although challenging, it was quite fun.
We scrambled along the final rock face to Kermits pool, but as we got a short distance through we found there was a sizable backlog of other tourists attempting this bit. Out of breath and with a lot of people crowding the paths and lookouts, we decided we’d seen enough for the day.
It was an exciting trip back to our new camp at Karijini Eco Retreat, as we had booked ourselves a ‘Luxury Eco Tent’ - a safari-style tent with a large canopy bed, nice furniture, stocked fridge with beer and treats, all topped off with a generous, clean bathroom. It was really nice and an upgrade from the van for a couple of nights. We ate dinner at the campground’s restaurant and the food was delicious. You could also see the young chef and staff cook in the kitchen right next to the seating area which was cool.
The Eco Retreat kept on giving, treating us to complementary gourmet breakfast with barista coffees. This morning we even got a packed lunch of wraps, fruit and muesli - spoiled!
For day forty-six we’d planned to visit Hamersley Gorge in the north-west corner of Karijini National Park, an hour’s drive on both sealed and unsealed roads. The views on the way were magnificent, and we couldn’t resist stopping a few times to capture some photos of the landscape.
When we arrived at Hamersley we were pleasantly surprised by fewer tourists than yesterday, which we put down to its more remote location. After a relatively easy climb down into the gorge, you’re immediately amongst a paradise.
The walls of the gorge seemed to bend and swirl in multicoloured iron formations, there’s an oasis of swimming holes, running water, birdlife and greenery. The water was fresh but lovely.
We climbed over the rocks and headed upstream to the renowned ‘Spa Pool’, and it was magic. It’s a tiny rounded pool with a waterfall flowing into one corner, and also quite deep, giving off an enchanting dark green colour. We sat under the falls and relaxed, taking in the environment and noting how fortunate we were to enjoy such a spot.
We were distracted by the breathtaking surroundings and didn’t get many photos here.
After enjoying the picnic lunch packed for us by the Eco Retreat we drove back to our accommodation, pleased and content after visiting the magnificent Hamersley Gorge.
We were distracted by the breathtaking surroundings and didn’t get many photos here.
After enjoying the picnic lunch packed for us by the Eco Retreat we drove back to our accommodation, pleased and content after visiting the magnificent Hamersley Gorge.
The longer we’ve stayed here, the more we fall in love with it. It's one of the most peaceful places we’ve been to. Everything seems to sit still, everywhere has its own beauty and something different to offer. It’s a magic spot.